Kenya-week one

I have sort of settled in to my new home. I have only been here for a couple of days so I am still trying to figure everything out, not to mention learn 150 monkeys!

I mentioned in an earlier email that I had to do some official business in Nairobi on my first day. I got up in the morning and went to see a man at the Ministry of Education, Science, and Technology to get clearance to do research in Kenya. When I got to the offices I found out that he wasn't there and someone sent me to his very intimidating boss who made it clear that he was the one who made the final decision on whether I got research clearance or NOT (emphasis on the not) and then he took all of my paperwork and told me to go enjoy Nairobi and come back at noon. I left there feeling nauseous, (probably partly from the anti-malarials) went back to my hotel, crawled back into bed and tried not to think about what would happen if he decided not to give me clearance. But when I went back the boss was gone and the man I was supposed to meet with was back and he gave me what I needed no questions asked (after I paid a fee, of course). After that I had to meet with a man who was going to help expedite the process of getting my student visa. I paid him another larger fee, handed off my passport, and now am waiting to get it back with my new visa, which will make me a resident of Kenya for the year (and I just found out that means I get resident rates on certain things).

Friday morning we left for Kakamega. We had a really long journey and our bus got into a minor accident along the way, so instead of being a 8 hour ride it was close to 10. Our bus ran into a small car on the road and after the impact it felt like we were going to tip right over! Very scary but no one was injured (except the car) and we all got off the bus and stood around for a while waiting for the cops. We finally got into town around 7:30 did some speed grocery shopping and then headed off for the forest.

Our house is pretty small - Alicia, the undergrad assistant, and I are sharing a room and Marina sleeps in the kitchen/living area. There is a similar house next door and there are three grad students living there right now. One of them is leaving in 3 weeks and the other 2 are staying until August.

I went out to meet G North group (one of four groups) for the first time on Saturday and have been out three times so far. The first monkey I met was named Dude, and I saw him about 20 times yesterday and I think I am already in love. There are about 40 monkeys in this group and they all stay really spread out. There are quite a few that I haven't even seen yet. I have started to learn a few of the females, there are 13, and few of the juveniles, especially Dude who seems to be everywhere I am. There are also black and white colobus monkeys in the forest as well as redtailed monkeys. They are both beautiful, but I have heard the colobus are not very intellegent. I am thinking they are comparable to howlers and about as loud - they start calling before the sun comes up right above our house.

Yesterday the monkeys were great and got down on the ground for most of the morning. We hung out by the station road and then went over to Wilberforce's house. He started the environmental ed program called KEEP in the area and right now is working with one of the grad students. Apparently the monkeys hang out at his house a lot. And yesterday they started to eat his house, I think they were just picking at the clay and eating bits to get the minerals. It was quite a sight. Monkeys sticking their hands in holes, licking the walls, and climbing all over the house.

I think I am finally recovered from jet lag and am starting to get used to things. We are in town right now. We got up early and took the Matatu in and had some breakfast - there is a place with really good samosas - and after this we are going to the market to do some shopping. I have to cook group dinner in a few days!